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VOYAGE TO ARABIA,

AND

TRAVELS

IN THAT COUNTRY, &C.

SECTION I.

voyage from copenhagen to alexandria.

Chap. I.

Departure from Copenhagen.

When the gentlemen, who had been appointed to go upon this expedition of observation and discovery, were all met, we received orders from his Majesty to proceed on board a ship of war, commanded by Mr Fischer, at present a vice-admiral in the Danish service, who was to carry us to Smyrna. We accordingly embarked, on the 4th of January 1761; and, after waiting three days for a fair wind, sailed out of the road of Copenhagen on the 7th of the same month.

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In the beginning of our voyage, we had a striking proof of the dangers and hardships which attend the navigation of the north seas, in consequence of the west winds blowing over them for nine months in the year. We had set sail on the 7th of January, but were so tossed by storms and contrary winds, that, on the 17th, in despair of being able to gain any port in Norway, we determined to return to Elsineur.

On the 26th of January, we sailed from Elsineur a second time, with a fair wind, which continued to tie end of the month. We passed the Categat, and advanced a good way through the North sea: But, in the beginning of February, the weather became again stormy, and the wind contrary. After being tossed for several days successively, and seeing no prospect of a change, we, on the 9th, resolved to return to Elsineur a second time, and reached it on the 10th. The wind blew with such violence, as to carry us, in thirty hours, as far backwards as we had been able to advance forwards in nine [i.e. fifteen, per Errata] days.

While our ship was thus disagreeably tossed, without making way, we were all extremely seasick; and especially Mr Von Haven, who, finding himself unable to bear it any longer, obtained permission to go by land from Copenhagen to Marseilles, at which port our ship was to touch.

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On the 19th of February, we sailed out of the road of Elsineur a third time, in hopes of finding the winds less variable. But hardly had we passed the Skagen, when a violent west wind forced us back to Elsineur. We were now very uneasy, considering, that we had been tossed upon seas for the space of 850 German miles*, without advancing more than four miles towards the end of our voyage. But we had reason to be happy at finding ourselves safe at Elsineur: Immediately after our arrival there, so furious a storm arose, that, although in some degree sheltered, by the coast, we were obliged to take every possible precaution for the safety of our ship, just as if we had been in the open sea. This storm arose from the west and continued till the 5th of March.

The weather became gradually fair and serene; and, on the 10th of March, we left Elsineur for the last time. The wind was at first so brisk, that we sailed at the rate of two German leagues and a half in the hour. On the 12th it changed; and from the 19th to the end of March, storms and contrary winds drove us as far north as to the latitude of 63°, near the coast of Iceland. On this occasion I remarked, that the motion of a vessel is most disagreeable immediately after a storm. In the height of a

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storm, the winds incline the ship to one side, and keep it firm; but, when they are calmed, the ship naturally feels the impulse of the waves.

In these latitudes, Mr Forskall made some observations upon the phosphoric light which the sea has been remarked to exhibit. He perceived it to be produced by small marine insects, chiefly of the Medusa species, with which those waters are filled. These insects long retain the power of shining in the dark. Happening to pour out by night a bucket of sea water, upon which these observations were made, we saw all the objects which it touched, sparkle instantly, like itself (A).

Spring began to come in, at the end of March, and in the beginning of April we had the finest weather in the world. But the dead calm which succeeded such a series of storms, detained us in those northern regions till the 8th of April. A fair wind then arose, and carried us so briskly forward, that, on the 21st of the month, we arrived within sight of Cape St Vincent, which we viewed with no small pleasure, as we had now been long out of the sight of land.

After being tossed in the North sea through a stormy winter, we entered the Mediterranean in the finest season of the year. Instead of the wild and bleak mountains of the North, which could

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inspire none but gloomy ideas, we now viewed, with admiration and delight, the rich and smiling landscapes on the coasts of Africa, and on the southern shores of Europe. Our voyage through the Mediterranean would have been quite delightful, if the frequent calms had not rendered us impatient, and disgusted us no less than the storms of the North had wearied and distressed us.

At last, after having often tacked about, we arrived, on the 14th of May, in the road of Marseilles, and cast anchor near St Eustace.

Chap. II

Passage from Marseilles to Malta, and from Malta to Constantinople.

The city of Marseilles is so well known, and has been so often described, that it is unnecessary to speak of the beauties of its situation, or of the multitude of villas all around it (B).

We found the harbour full of ships belonging to different nations, that durst not venture out to sea for fear of the English fleet, under Admiral Saunders. Several of them were employed in the Levant trade, on account of French merchants, and would have been good prizes to the English.

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Mr Von Haven having travelled through Germany and France, joined us here. Here also we found three Danish merchant ships, which were to proceed to Smyrna, under the protection of our ship of war.

After viewing all the curiosities of Marseilles, we set sail on the 3d of June, in company with the other three Danish ships. Although at peace with the English, yet we did not think ourselves safe from being insulted by the fleets of that nation; as they insist upon going on board, and examining even neutral vessels. Our Captain had determined not to yield to such an infraction of the rights of nations; and accordingly prepared for making a vigorous defence, if any insult of this nature should be offered him. As we had expected, we fell in with English ships three different times; and they attempted to come on board of us: But our Captain strenuously refusing to submit to any such indignity, they made off with a bad grace, and suffered us to continue our route unmolested.

On the 14th of June, we arrived at Malta, and cast anchor in the grand harbour, almost in the middle of the city Valetta, or rather of the several cities of which it is composed. This city has a fine appearance, when viewed from the harbour: The houses, with terraces on their

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roofs, and built against steep, pointed rocks, have quite an oriental aspect.

All the dwelling houses, as well as the public buildings, are of hewn stone; which is not surprising, considering how easily the materials are procured. The whole isle is one vast rock, covered with a very thin layer of vegetable earth. The rock is calcareous, and so soft, that, when taken out of the quarry, it may be cut almost like wood. From this circumstance, a part of the fortifications of the city have been hewn out in the natural stone.

Of the public buildings, the most superb is St John’s church, which enjoys a considerable revenue, and is entitled to a share of the prizes taken by the gallies of the Order. It has thus been enriched with a great number of valuable curiosities, and, among others, a lustre, with a chain of pure gold, 500,000 crowns in value.* The riches of this church are said to exceed those of the Kaaba at Mecca, and of the tomb of Mahomet at Medina.

We were shewn a Turkish ship of war, of 84 guns, which had been seized and brought into Malta by Christian slaves. The king of France soon after bought this ship, and restored it to the Grand Signior. The Order agreed the more readily to this, because, since the conventions

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entered into by the kings of France and Naples with the Porte, the Maltese ships have seldom gone out on expeditions against the Turks. But privateers still go out, and bring in their prizes to Malta. These Christian corsairs are commonly provided with letters of marque from the prince of Monaco, or some other Italian prince, of whose existence the Turks are ignorant. And the inhabitants of the East hence continue to regard Malta in the same light in which we consider Tripoli and Algiers.

Mr Forskall and I went together to view the island. It is only five German leagues in length*, and two and a half in breadth†. The inhabitants live under a mild government; and accordingly cultivate this bare rock with such care, that it produces excellent fruits. The old capital, Civita Vecchia, is every day more and more deserted.

Near the city are some very remarkable catacombs, or rather subterraneous dwellings, cut in the rock. They are so extensive, that it has been found proper to build up the entrances into several of the passages, to prevent the curious from losing themselves. The remains of public halls, and of a miln, which are there observeable, afford reason for thinking, that the islanders once lived in these subterraneous dwellings, or at least retired into them in times of danger (C).

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We left Malta on the 20th of June, and saw no land till the 26th, when we entered the Archipelago On the third of July, we entered the road of Smyrna, where we staid till the 10th. A very severe dysentery, with which I had been attacked, hindered me from seeing the city, otherwise than at a distance.

On the 13th, we reached the isle of Tenedos, where we found the interpreter of Mr Gœhler, at that time our ambassador at the Porte. He brought us orders to quit the ship, and repair in a small bark to Constantinople. In this isle we saw Turks for the first time; and their language and manners appeared to us so extraordinary, that we began to despair of ease or pleasure in our intercourse with the people of the East. A man of distinction from the continent, however, so far forgot the precepts of the Alcoran, when he visited us, that he seemed to have come on board for no other purpose than to drink our Captain’s wine.

We left the ship on the 29th of July, but did not land at Constantinople till the 30th. We went immediately to Pera, where we were received by Mr Gœhler, and all lodged in his house; a piece of kind attention which contributed greatly to my recovery.

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Chap. III.

Constantinople.

As we were in haste to reach Egypt, we set out from Constantinople immediately after my recovery. I did not, therefore, see the capital of the Ottoman empire at this time: But, on my return from Arabia, I staid longer in that city; and I shall set down here a few observations which I then made, especially as they seem to have been overlooked by most other travellers.

Constantinople is undeniably a city of very considerable extent: Yet Kara-Agadfch, Galata, Pera, Dolma-Bagdsche, &c. are not to be considered as so many suburbs: They are distinct cities, divided by the Gulf from the capital. Ejub is the only suburb belonging to it. And if we take in only the city of Constantinople, and this suburb, it is considerably inferior in extent to either London or Paris. I durst not measure it geometrically: but, counting my steps as I walked round it, I found its circumference to be 2600 [i.e. 26,000, per Errata] paces.

Constantinople appears larger than it really is: for, as the houses rise upon the sides of hills, they present themselves in the form of an amphitheatre

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and thus appear to spread over a wide extent of ground. Towards the sea, however, the city consists of new houses, and is receiving continual additions. Of late, they have even encroached upon the harbour and filled up some part of it, in order to gain ground for new buildings.

It would be hard to fix the number of the inhabitants: It is always stated too high, from a mistake incident to travellers, in estimating the population of the cities of the East. They regard those cities as equally populous, in proportion to their extent, with those of Europe. But the houses in the East are low. Persons in easy circumstances, chuse to have a large area behind their houses. The palaces of the great, with their gardens and seraglios, occupy much ground.

It is not less a mistake to judge of the population of those cities, by the numbers of people who are constantly busy in the streets. The jealousy of the people of the East renders them unwilling to receive persons with whom they have business, in their houses. On this account, the artisans work without doors, and spend the whole day in open places. The streets are full of joiners, ironmongers, goldsmiths, jewellers, &c. busy in the exercise of their several trades. Thousands of workmen come in the mornings, work all the day in the streets of Constantinople,

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and return in the evening to their houses in the country. If the same modes of life prevailed in Europe, and the greater number of the artisans and workmen about our great cities lived in the country, these would then appear much more populous than at present.

Whatever be its population, Constantinople exhibits a delightful prospect. Its harbour, one of the finest in the world, is always full of vessels. The medley of superb mosques and palaces, gardens and trees of all sorts, which the city displays, appears remarkably striking to a stranger. But within, the arrangement and appearance of the city, correspond not to its splendour when seen from a distance. The streets are almost all narrow, dirty, and irregular; the houses are of wood, slight, and ill built, and appear more like coops for birds than dwellings for men. Of the palaces built of stone, nothing is to be seen but the high walls that surround them. In this city, it is equally dangerous to live in stone and in wooden houses. In the former, one is liable to be buried in ruins, by earthquakes; in the latter, to be burnt, by the breaking out of a fire:—These two species of awful events being equally frequent at Constantinople.

The seraglio of the Grand Signior is a vast, but very irregular edifice. I was not permitted to approach farther into it than the outer court. But, what I saw was enough to give me a very

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high idea of the rest. I could learn nothing concerning this gate (porta) of the seraglio, that might serve to account for the origin of the very improper denomination of Ottoman Porte, which is applied in Europe to the Court of the Grand Signior. Kapu in the Turkish language, signifies both a gate and a palace. But, when they speak of going to the Porte at Constantinople, the palace of the Grand Visir is always meant, where all business is transacted, as well what regards the internal regulation of the empire, as the negotiations with foreign ministers.

The city is plentifully supplied with water, from three Beuts [i.e. Bents, per Errata] or reservoirs, situated at the distance of three German leagues. A Beut [i.e. Bent, per Errata] is a reservoir in a valley, into which water is conducted from the higher grounds circumjacent, and there confined by a strong wall. The water collected in this manner is conveyed into the town by aqueducts, which have been constructed at a vast expence, in consequence of the ground being so unequal. It is not to the Greek emperors that the Turks owe these noble works. One of them was raised by Sultan Mahmoud; and another upon the north side, with the branches communicating with it, was but lately constructed by Sultan Mustapha, who was on the throne when I was at Constantinople. As this

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water cannot be equally distributed through the whole city, on account of the inequality of the ground, water-houses are established in proper places, from which it is served out to every person gratis. Opposite to the outer gate of the seraglio, is a house splendidly decorated, where persons paid by the public, present water to the passengers, in vessels of gilt copper.

This capital of a great empire is almost destitute of means of defence. A double wall, and a ditch nearly filled up, are all its fortifications. The Turks trust for the security of the city to four castles, built upon the two channels which terminate in the sea of Marmora, and communicating one of them with the Archipelago, and the other with the Black Sea. Those castles, known by the name of the Dardanelles, are but of little moment. But the channels are so narrow and crooked, that a fleet which were to attempt to sail up either, even with the most favourable wind, could hardly escape being sunk by the discharge of the batteries. The best mode of attacking Constantinople by sea, would be to block up the mouth of the channels, and thus deprive the city of the supplies of provisions which it receives from the Archipelago. The city of Galata, surrounded with a strong wall, and rising upon a steep height over against Constantinople, is extremely populous. All the

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European traders, and many of the Eastern Christians live there. Pera is a suburb to Galata. In it reside the ambassadors of such Christian powers as send public ministers to the Porte. The deputies which come by turns from Algiers, Tunis, Tripolis [i.e. Tripoli, per Errata], and Ragusa, lodge at Constantinople. But, the Turks consider not these deputies as ambassadors; nor yet the Kapu Kiajas, who manage the affairs of the princes of Walachia, and Moldavia.

The Sultan has many houses of pleasure, both in the neighbourhood of the capital, and on the shores on the channel of the Black Sea. But the reigning Sultan goes no where but to Kara Agadsch, the gloomy, solitary, situation of which suits the melancholy complexion of his mind. He is suffering the others to fall into ruins: He has caused several of them to be pulled down, and the materials to be employed in building public baths and mosques.

The Greeks have three and twenty churches in Constantinople, and the Armenians three; exclusive of those which the two nations have in the suburbs. A clergyman [i.e. Catholic clergyman, per Errata] resides at Pera, on whom the Pope confers the pompous title of Archbishop, placing him at the head of a great many imaginary bishops. By the laws, no strange sect is suffered to build houses of prayer in the capital. Yet, several sects hold their

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meetings there, without being checked by Government.

Chap. IV.

Voyage from Constantinople to Alexandria.

Assoon as I was so much recovered as to be able to travel, we prepared to set out. At Alexandria we might have ventured to appear in the European dress; as the inhabitants of that city are accustomed to see a great number of Franks. But, through the rest of Egypt, and in Arabia, our dress, consisting of so many pieces, and so different from the beautiful simplicity of the eastern dress, might have exposed us to inconveniencies. We therefore resolved to assume the Turkish dress; and having obtained, by means of Mr Gœhler, a passport from the Sultan, with letters of recommendation, we embarked on board a vessel belonging to Dolcigno.

We set sail on the 11th of September, and on the 15th reached the Dardanelles. All vessels leaving Constantinople are visited by an officer of the customs, whose business is to prevent the desertion of slaves, and the defrauding of the revenue of the established dues.

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During the stay, which, in consequence of this, we were obliged to make before one of the castles, called Hum Kalla, I was confirmed in the opinion which I had before taken up of the inutility of those Boghas Hissar, or Dardanelles. Every thing about them is neglected: cannons, of an enormous bore, charged with stones, lie useless on the ground. But I observed something else, which would serve to retard a fleet advancing to attack Constantinople; the shallows between that city and the Dardanelles.

On the 17th of September, we again hoisted our sails, and passing the isles of the Archipelago, cast anchor on the 21st in the harbour of Rhodes. We there fell in with the Captain Pacha, with some ships of war. The islanders are not fond of being visited by the imperial fleets; both because they are expected to make presents to the admiral, and because the sailors are insufferably insolent.

We saw an instance of the fear which those undisciplined crews every where inspire. When we landed, we went immediately to the house of the Danish Consul; but found his doors shut, to keep out the sailors; and on account of our Turkish dress, could not obtain admission, till we met with an honest Capuchin, who knew us for Europeans, and introduced us. The Consul sent his interpreter to accompany us in some

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little excursions, which curiosity induced us to make through the island.

The city of Rhodes still exhibits several things to remind the traveller that it was once inhabited by the knights of the order of St John, who, upon their expulsion hence by the Turks, were fixed at Malta. It contains a number of noble old buildings, some of which are decorated with the armorial bearings of some of the most ancient families in Europe, But the palace which belonged to the Grand Master of the Order, is now falling into ruins. The Turks neglect the fortifications; although they might know their importance, from having besieged the island so long before they could make themselves matters of it. But, notwithstanding this neglect, Rhodes is one of the best fortified places in the Ottoman empire, and the Turks think it impregnable.

In this city we had the curiosity, for the first time, to go to dine in a Turkish inn. Dinner was served up to us in the open street, upon a large stone seat, connected with the kitchen-wall: the meat was in a coarse, ill-fashioned, earthen plate; and we eat it without knife or fork. We had an excellent dinner, and were charged high. We went thence to drink some wine at a Jew’s house, who valued himself on supplying it to all strangers. He had two handsome girls with him, whom he called his daughters, and who

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spoke Italian well. Our entertainment at his house cost us much dearer than our Turkish meal.

There area great many Greeks in the isle of Rhodes, but they are not suffered to live in the city. Messrs Von Haven and Cramer witnessed an instance of the ill treatment which that people suffer from their conquerors. My companions had gone with some Greeks to visit their bishop, in a village near the city. While they were with him, some Turkish musicians made their appearance, and insisted upon entertaining the good prelate with music, which he had no desire to hear. Although he refused their concert, the musicians would be paid; and did not retire without insulting him and his company.

We set sail early in the morning of the 22d of September. Hitherto, we had sailed near the coasts, and among islands; and it would consequently have been vain to make observations on the course we sailed. But, in the open sea, we had soon an opportunity of remarking the ignorance of the Turks in every thing relative to navigation. The master of our ship had compasses and several instruments, but knew not what use to make of them. They were probably a part of the plunder which he had taken in some Christian ship: for the Dolcignots often

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give themselves out for Algerines, and take European ships belonging to powers at peace with the Porte. In the course of our voyage, our Dolcignot was afraid of being taken himself: for it was reported that the Maltese, or rather some privateers, with letters of marque from some Italian prince, were at that time scowring those seas. We could not have made a glorious defence; our ship was a heavy sailer, and over-laden, with only a few rusty guns not properly mounted (D).

Our skilful Captain held for Alexandria, by chance. Luckily for us, a very favourable wind sprung up, and carried us straight into the harbour in the day; otherwise, I know not how we could have escaped the greatest dangers. The shores of Egypt are so low, that they cannot be seen from a distance, and a ship approaching, without knowing her course, can hardly fail to run a-ground.

Our Captain, his secretary, and two pilots, spoke Italian tolerably well. The secretary had been at Venice, in different other Italian cities, and even at Vienna, where he received the following information. When we asked him if there were any Pagans in the Turkish empire, he replied; “No; but, in Germany and Hungary there are: they are called Lutherans, and have no notions of God and his prophets.” At another

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time, when the truth of the Christian Religion was mentioned, he rose in a fury, and exclaimed: “They who believe in any other divinity, but God only, are oxen and asses.” After reasoning so forcibly, he went off without waiting to hear any reply.

This zealous secretary was at the same time Imam, or almoner of the vessel. The Imam’s business is to direct the crew in their evening prayers, which the Mahometans perform regularly after washing. The Imam then spreads his carpet, kneels with his face towards Mecca, and mutters his prayers, prostrating himself from time to time, and crying Allah Akbar, God is Great. The assembly repeat his words, and regularly imitate his motions and gestures. One thing essential, is, to put the thumbs behind the ears, to mark the perfect abstraction of the mind from all worldly cares, and the elevation of the soul towards heaven.

Beside this public evening prayer, the Mahometans are directed by law to say other prayers, in the course of their avocations, whenever they find themselves most disposed to the duty. They make no difficulty of displaying their humility and devotion before spectators. I was at first afraid to disturb them by my presence, and attempted to retire; but most of them pressed me to remain and join them. It is only the insolence

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of the populace, that hinders Christians from entering mosques, or witnessing their acts of devotion.

In our ship, which was too full, the Musulman passengers were seated on the decks. We had hired the captain’s apartment, with another long room adjoining, in order to separate ourselves from the Turks. In a cabin above us were lodged some slaves intended for the market, girls who had received a good education in the Turkish mode, and were destined for the Haram of some grandee. Mr Forskal and I, one day, while we were in our chamber, overheard a female voice, and set our heads to the window, to observe whence it came. Those slaves observing us to be strangers, cried out, and scolded us. But one of them soothed the rest. We held out to them fruits and sugar; and they put dawn their handkerchiefs to receive what they liked. As we and they had no common language to converse in, we conversed by signs. The youngest addressed a few words to me, several different times. To know their purport, we asked the clerk of the ship, to explain the meaning of a great many Turkish words and phrases, and at length came to understand, that the girl had warned us to beware of appearing at the window, except when the crew were at prayers. Those females became at last so familiar with us, as to give us

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notice by knocking at the window, whenever they were alone. This imprudent frolic amused us a few moments; but it might have occasioned us much serious trouble; and we came afterwards to understand, what extreme folly it is to make the slightest acquaintance with Turkish women.

In the evening of the 6th of September, we arrived at Alexandria, and anchored in the great harbour, which Christian ships are not permitted to do; they are obliged to anchor in the small harbour, which is very dangerous. The passengers went immediately on shore; but the slaves remained till night, and were carried away with the utmost secrecy.

Eight of the crew had died somewhat suddenly in the course of the voyage; which made us afraid that the plague might be among us. Happily our fears proved vain; for our physician, who visited several of those persons, while they were ill, found no symptom of pestilential infection among them (E).

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