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SECTION XIV.

our stay at sana, in the imam’s court,

Chap. I.

Our arrival at Sana.

On the morning of the 16th of July we had sent our servant forward, with a letter, addressed to Fakih Achmed, the Imam’s vizier, announcing to him our arrival. But that nobleman, having already heard of our near approach, had sent one of his principal secretaries, to meet us, and bid us welcome. This deputy informed us, that we had been long expected at the court of Sana, and that the Imam had hired an elegant country-house for us, in the suburb of Bir-el-Assab.

We learned that the Vizier had likewise a villa there. When we arrived near this place,

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the secretary asked us to alight. We supposed upon this, that we were to be immediately introduced to the Vizier; but we only saw our secretary and our mussulman servants proceed on their asses, while we were obliged to march on foot, a long way, before we reached our lodging. This humiliating ceremony was what we had not expected to be subjected to among the Arabs, who value themselves upon their politeness.

In our villa we found very good rooms, but those perfectly naked and unfurnished. We were here as ill accommodated as we had been in Yemen, and more so than we could have been in a caravansera, where we would at least have found food. Here we were obliged to fast till we could have victuals brought from the city. Beside our house, was an orchard, in which the trees appeared to have grown of themselves, without receiving any culture.

Next morning the Imam sent us a present, consisting of five sheep, with wood, rice, lights, and spices. The bearer of this present had at the same time orders to let us know, that the Imam was sorry that he could not see us for these two days yet, he being at present employed in paying off his mercenary troops. This delay we would have regarded with indifference, had we not been at the same time enjoined to keep within doors, till we should obtain our

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first audience of his Highness. We could have wished to make the most of our stay here.

They had however forgotten to warn us, that the etiquette of this Court likewise prohibited strangers from receiving visits from the inhabitants of the country till they should first appear there. We had an acquaintance at Sana, a Jew, who had made the voyage from Cairo to Loheya in our company. This Jew, although belonging to one of the richest and most respectable families of his nation, had entered into our service, for the course of that voyage, either that he might travel in the greater security, or to spare the expence. Accordingly, he no sooner heard of our arrival, than he came to pay us a visit, and, next day brought one of the greatest astrologers in his nation to see us. While these men were in our company, the Secretary of Vizier Fakih Achmed happened to come in. The two Jews rose before him, in testimony of respect. But the secretary, angry that they should have presumed to violate the etiquette, drove them out of the house, and ordered our servants to admit no person to visit us, till we should first have waited on his master.

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Chap. II.

Our audience of the Imam.

On the 19th of July, the secretary of the vizier, Fakih Achmed, came to conduct us to an audience of the Imam, in his palace of Bustan el Metwokkel. We had expected that we should be introduced privately to an audience of this monarch, or at least in presence only of a few of his principal courtiers. We were surprised therefore to see every thing prepared for an occasion of great ceremony. The court of the palace was so full of horses, officers, and others, that we should scarcely have made our way through the crowd, if the Nakib Gheir Alla, who had been a slave, but was now master of the horse, had not come, with a great staff in his hand, to open a passage for us.

The hall of audience was a spacious square chamber having an arched roof. In the middle was a large bason, with some jets d’eau, rising fourteen feet in height. Behind the bason, and near the throne, were two large benches, each a foot and an half high: upon the throne was a space covered with silken stuff, on which, as

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well as on both sides of it, lay large cushions. The Imam sat between the cushions, with his legs crossed in the eastern fashion; his gown was of a bright green colour, and had large sleeves. On each side of his breast was a rich filleting of gold-lace; and on his head he wore a great white turban. His sons sat on his right hand, and his brothers on his left. Opposite to them, upon the highest of the two benches; sat the vizier; and our place was on the lower bench. On the two sides of the hall, sat many of the principal men about court.

We were first led up to the Imam, and were permitted to kiss both the back and the palm of his hand, as well as the hem of his robe. It is an extraordinary favour, when the Mahometan princes permit any person to kiss the palm of the hand. There was a solemn silence through the whole hall. As each of us touched the Imam’s hand, a herald still proclaimed; “God preserve the Imam!” All who were present repeated those words aloud after him. I was thinking at the time, how I should pay my compliments in Arabic, and was not a little disturbed by this noisy ceremony; but I had afterwards time to recollect myself.

As the language spoken at the court of Sana, differs greatly from that of Tehama, the only dialect of the Arabic tongue with which we

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were familiarly acquainted, or could speak tolerably, we had brought our servant whom we had hired in Mokha, to be our interpreter. The vizier who had resided long in Tehama, did the same service for the Imam. Our conversation, consequently, could not be either very long, or very interesting. We did not think proper to mention the true reasons of our expedition through Arabia; but told the Imam, that wishing to travel by the shortest way to the Danish colonies in the East Indies, we had heard so much of the plenty and security which prevailed through the dominions of the Imam; that we had resolved to see them with our own eyes, that we might describe them to our countrymen. The Imam told us; we were welcome into his dominions; and might stay as long as we pleased. After repeating the ceremony of kissing the Imam’s hands, and hearing the repeated acclamations of the spectators, we now retired in the same order in which we had come in.

The Imam sent us, after our return home, to each a small purse containing ninty nine Komassis, two and thirty of which make a crown. This piece of civility might perhaps appear no compliment to a traveller’s delicacy. But, when it is considered that a stranger, unacquainted with the value of the money of the country, obliged to pay every day for his provisions, is in danger

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of being imposed upon by the money-changers, this care of providing us with small money will appear to have been sufficiently obliging. We therefore accepted the present, although we had resolved not to be in any degree chargeable to the Arabs.

Chap. III.

Visit to Vizier Fakih Achmed.

In Turkey no person is admitted to an audience of the Sultan, till after he has visited the vizier. The custom in Yemen is directly contrary. After being honoured with an audience of the Imam in the morning, we were invited to wait on Fakih Achmed in the afternoon, at his country seat, near Bir-el-Assab. We were at the same time desired to bring with us those curiosities which we had shewn to Emir Farhan at Loheya, and to several Arabs of distinction in other cities. Those rarities were only microscopes, telescopes, prospect glasses, thermometers, maps, and other such things. I did not chuse to produce my mathematical instruments, lest perhaps some Schech might persuade the vizier to ask them for his use.

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the vizier received us with great politeness, and expressed himself highly pleased with what we shewed him. He put various questions to us, from which he appeared to possess considerable knowledge, and to have studied the sciences with a degree of care far from common among his countrymen. By means of Turkish, Persian, and Indian merchants, he had acquired tolerably correct notions of geography. The Arabians imagine that Europe lies south from them, because the Franks whom they see, come from India. But the Fakih knew very well the situation of the different states of Europe, with their respective powers and forces, both by sea and land. Nor could more be expected from an Arabian who had never seen a map.

In the narratives of many voyages, we had read, that in the East an inferior might not appear before a superior, without bringing a present in his hand. Besides, we were desirous of returning the marks of politeness which had been shewn us, and of expressing our gratitude for the entertainment we had received.

For these reasons, we resolved to take this opportunity of offering our present to the Imam and the Fakih; sent to the latter some pieces of mechanism, such as watches, and some other instruments little known among the Arabs. We soon after learned, that this was more than had

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been expected at our hands, since, not being merchants, we had no favour to ask. All had however been very graciously accepted. The Turks regard the presents of the Europeans as a tribute; but at the court of Sana they appear to be considered in a different light.

The Vizier’s country-house was not large. It was even entirely open, upon one side. A number of fruit-trees grew in the garden. In the midst of it was a jet d’eau, similar to that which we had seen in the Imam’s hall of audience. The water was put in motion, by being raised in a reservoir, by an ass and a man who led him. This jet d’eau was no ornament; but it cooled the air; a thing very agreeable in hot countries. We saw others of the same sort, in the gardens of all the principal inhabitants of Sana.

Chap. IV.

Of the city of Sana.

The city of Sana, is situate at the foot of mount Nikkum, on which are still to be seen the ruins of a castle, which the Arabs suppose to have been built by Shem. Near this mountain, stands

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the castle; a rivulet runs upon the other side and near it, is the Bustan el Metwokkel, a spacious garden, which was laid out by Imam Metwokkel, and has been embellished with a fine garden, by the reigning Imam. The walls of the city, which are built of bricks, exclude this garden, which is enclosed within a walk, of its own. The city, properly so called, is not very extensive: One may walk round it all in an hour.

I should have wished to make an accurate ground-plan of this city. But, wherever I went, the mob crowded after me so, that a survey was absolutely impossible. The city-gates are seven. Here are a number of mosques, some of which have been built by Turkish Pachas. Sana has the appearance of being more populous than it actually is; for gardens occupy a part of the space within the walls. In Sana, are only twelve public baths: but many noble palaces, three of the most splendid of which have been built by the reigning Imam. The palace of the late Imam El Manzor, with some others, belong to the royal family, who are very numerous.

The Arabian palaces are built in a style of architecture different from ours. The materials are, however, burnt bricks, and sometimes even hewn stones; but the houses of the common

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people are of bricks which have been dried in the sun. I saw no glass windows, except in one palace, near the citadel. The rest of the houses have, instead of windows, merely shutters, which are opened in fair weather, and shut when it is foul. In the last case, the house is lighted by a round wicket, fitted with a piece of Muscovy glass; some of the Arabians, use small panes of stained glass from Venice.

At Sana, and in the other cities of the East, are great Simseras or caravanseras for merchants and travellers. Each different commodity is sold in a separate market. In the market for bread, none but women are to be seen; and their little shops are portable. The several classes of mechanics work, in the same manner, in particular quarters in the open street. Writers go about with their desks, and make out brieves, copy-books, and instruct scholars in the art of writing, all at the same time. There is one market, where old clothes are taken in exchange for new.

Wood for the carpenter’s purposes is in general extremely dear through all Yemen; and wood for the fire at Sana is no less so. All the hills near the city are bleak and bare, and wood is therefore to be brought hither from the distance of three days journey; and a camel’s burthen commonly costs two crowns. This

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scarcity of wood is particularly supplied by the use of a little pit-coal. I have seen peats burnt here, but those so bad, that straw must be intermixed to make them burn.

Fruits are, however, very plenteous at Sana. Here are more than twenty different species of grapes, which, as they do not all ripen at the same time, continue to afford a delicious refreshment for several months. The Arabs likewise preserve grapes, by hanging them up in their cellars, and eat them almost through the whole year. The Jews make a little wine, and might make more, if the Arabs were not such enemies to strong liquors. A Jew convicted of conveying wine into an Arab’s house is severely punished; nay, the Jews must even use great caution, in buying and selling it among themselves. Great quantities of grapes are dried here; and the exportation of raisins from Sana is considerable. One sort of these grapes are without stones, and contains only a soft grain, the presence of which is not perceptible in eating the raisin.

In the castle, which stands on a hill, are two palaces. I saw about it some ruins of old buildings, but, notwithstanding the antiquity of the place, no remarkable inscriptions. There is the mint, and a range of prisons for persons of different ranks. The reigning Imam resides in the

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city; but several princes of the blood-royal live in the castle. I was conducted to a battery, as the most elevated place about these buildings; and there I met with what I had no expectation of, a German mortar, with this inscription, Jorg Selos Gosmick, 1513. I saw also, upon the same battery, seven iron cannons, partly buried in the sand, and partly set upon broken carriages. These seven small cannons, with six others, near the gates, which are fired to announce the return of the different festivals, are all the artillery of the capital of Yemen.

Chap. V.

Of the country around Sana.

The suburb of Bir el Assab is nearly adjoining to the city upon the east side. The houses of this village are scattered through the gardens, along the bank of a small river. Two leagues northward from Sana is a plain, named Rodda, which is overspread with gardens, and watered by a number of rivulets. This place bears a great resemblance to the neighourhood of Damascus. But Sana, which some ancient authors compare to Damascus, stands on a rising ground, with nothing like florid vegetation about it.

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After long rains, indeed, a small rivulet runs through the city; but all the ground is dry, through the rest of the year. However, by aqueducts from mount Nikkum, the town and cause of Sana are, at all times, supplied with abundance of excellent fresh water.

Jews are not permitted to live in the city of Sana. They live by themselves in a village, named Kaa el Ihud, situate near Bir el Assab. Their number amounts to two thousand. But, in Yemen, they are treated even more contemptuously than in Turkey. Yet, the best artisans in Arabia are Jews; especially potters and goldsmiths, who come to the city, to work in their little shops by day, and in the evening retire to their village.

Those Jews carry on a considerable trade. One of the most eminent Merchants among them, named Orœki, gained the favour of two succesive Imam’s, and was for thirteen years, in the reign of El Mansor, and for fifteen years under the present Imam, comptroller of the customs and of the royal buildings and gardens; one of the most honourable offices at the court of Sana. Two years before our arrival here, he had fallen into disgrace, and was not only imprisoned, but obliged to pay a fine of 50,000 crowns. Fifteen days before we arrived at Sana, the Imam had let him at liberty. He was a venerable old

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man, of great knowledge: and although he had received the Imam’s permission, had never chosen to assume any other dress than that commonly worn among his countrymen. The young Jew, who had been our servant, was one of his relations, and had mentioned us so favourably to him, that he conceived a desire to see us. But we durst not hold frequent intercourse with a man so newly released out of prison.

The disgrace of Orœki had drawn a degree of persecution upon the rest of the Jews. At that period, the government ordered fourteen synagogues, which the Jews had at Sana, to be demolished. In their village are as handsome houses as the best in Sana. Of those houses likewise all above the height of fourteen fathoms was demolished, and the Jews were forbidden to raise any of their buildings above this height in future. All the stone pitchers in which the inhabitants of the village had used to keep their wines were broken. In short, the poor Jews suffered mortifications of all sorts.

The Banians, in Sana, are reckoned to be about 125. They pay 300 crowns a-month for permission to live in the city: Whereas the populous village of Kaa el Ihud pays only 125 crowns a-month. The heirs of a deceased Banian are obliged to pay from 40 to 50 crowns:

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And, if the defunct leaves no near relations in Yemen, his whole property devolves to the Imam. The Banians told us, that two men of their nation had been dragged to prison two months before, and, before they could obtain their liberty, were forced to yield up 1500 crowns of an inheritance which had fallen to them in India, and of which they had touched no part in Arabia.

Chap. VI.

The Pomp of the Imam’s Return from the Mosque.

It is well known, that the Turkish Sultan goes every Friday to the mosque. The Imam observes the same pious custom with the same exactness, and goes and comes upon the occasion in a very pompous manner. We saw him only returning from the mosque, when his train is said to be swelled by all those who have performed their devotions at other mosques. The better to display his magnificence, he makes a long circuitous progress at his return.

The Imam, upon the occasion when we saw him came out of the principal mosque, and passed out by one gate of the city, that he might come in by another, with some hundreds of soldiers,

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marching in procession before him. Over him, and the princes of his numerous family, Medallas, or large parasols, were borne; a distinction peculiarly appropriated to the sovereign and the princes of the blood-royal. We were told, that in other parts of Yemen, all the independent nobility, such as the sheriffe of Abu Arisch, the Schiechs of Jafa, and of Haschid-u-Bekil, constantly display this mark of their independence.

Beside the princes of the blood, there were in this procession at least six hundred noblemen, ecclesiastics and officers, civil and military, all superbly mounted upon horses; and a vast crowd of people followed on foot. On each side of the Imam was borne a standard, having upon it a small silver box filled with amulets, whose efficacy was imagined to render him invincible. This procession was, in short, magnificent, but disorderly. The riders paced or galloped, at pleasure, and all went on in confusion.

Near a gate were stationed some pairs of camels bearing carriages, in which some of the Imam’s wives often ride upon such occasions: But the carriages were at this time empty, and served only to fill up the procession. Behind the camels, which bore these, were twelve others, bearing nothing but some small flags, fixed, by way of ornament, to their saddles.

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The soldiers fired a few rounds without the gate, but not less awkwardly than in the other cities of Yemen. In their evolutions before the palace, they shewed no greater dexterity than the provincial troops which we had seen perform their exercises under the Dolas. The city gates were shut during divine service.

Chap. VII.

Our Audience of taking Leave.

The favourable reception we had met with at Sana, which was above our expectations, might have tempted us to stay longer. Many of the principal men about the Imam’s court urged us to spend another year in Yemen. But we had lost two of our companions, who could have availed themselves more than we of a continued stay in Arabia. Some instances, too, of the Imam’s avarice, which had come to our knowledge, added to what we had experienced in those cases in which we had been embroiled with the Dolas, impressed us with a degree of distrust, and made us fear that our present good treatment might end in a very different manner. We had, besides, found the climate hurtful to our constitutions, and our health was much injured by the

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changing temperature of the atmosphere. We therefore began to think seriously of sailing for India with the English, that we might save our lives and papers.

We had permission to leave Sana whenever we should think proper; but it was required that we should take a formal leave of the Imam, and shew him the curiosities which the Vizier had seen; a circumstance which obliged us to defer our journey for some days.

We were sent for to Court on the 23d of July, and conducted into the same hall in which the Imam had received us at our former audience. Upon this second occasion, every thing passed very quietly. The Imam sat on the lowest bench beside the throne, upon a chair wrought of reeds. We kissed the hem of his robe, and both sides of his hand. Nobody was present but the Vizier, the secretary, by whom we had been conducted into the presence, and six or seven slaves or servants. None of out servants were permitted to accompany us; as the Vizier thought us qualified to express ourselves in the language of the country. All that we shewed the Imam seemed to please him highly; and both he and his minister put many questions to us concerning the manners, trade, and learning of the Europeans. A small chest of medicines. which the Imam had received from an Englishman,

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was then brought in. Mr Cramer was asked to explain the virtues of those drugs; and the Imam caused what he said, concerning their nature, to be taken down in writing.

I had been indisposed when I came out to wait on the Imam; and, in consequence of standing so long, I felt myself so weak, that I was obliged to ask permission to retire. Before the door I found some of the first officers in the court, sitting on piles of stones along the wall.

The Great Chamberlain, Gheir Allah, with whom I had often had occasion to speak, immediately made me an offer of his seat, and gathered stones to make himself another. In this company I was again addressed with a number of questions concerning the manners and customs of Europe. Those Arabs strongly disapproved of our practice of drinking spiritous liquors. But when I assured them that the Christians were forbidden to indulge in drunkenness, and that no sensible European drank more wine than was good for his health, they allowed the custom to be rational. They even acknowledged that it was absurd to abstain entirely from the use of a liquor of which they had such abundance, and which, on many occasions, might prove salutary as a remedy.

I returned into the hall; and, after Mr Cramer had finished his account of the drugs, and

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we had answered various other questions, we took our leave with the same ceremonies which we had observed at entering. In the afternoon, we went to take leave of Vizier Fakih Achmed, and some other persons of distinction.

Chap. VIII.

Our Departure from Sana.

We had, indeed, good reasons to induce us to return to Mokha, by the same way by which we had come. It is better frequented; and upon it I should have had an opportunity of copying the inscriptions of which the Arabs had spoken to me: But I had been so often deceived already by stories of pretended antiquities, that to the uncertain hopes which those inscriptions held out to me, I preferred the certain advantage of surveying another part of Yemen, and of seeing the Tehama in the rainy season. We acquainted the Vizier, therefore, that we wished to travel by Moshak to Beit el Fakih. He not only approved of our intention, but told us, that the Imam would supply us with camels and asses for our journey.

On the 25th of July, the Imam sent each of us a complete suit of clothes, with a letter to the

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Dola of Mokha to pay us two hundred crowns, as a farewell present. We were at first afraid that this prince might suppose us to have come, like the Turks, to draw money from him, or that we had made our presents with interested views. But, after reflecting that we had been obliged to ransom ourselves, in a manner, at Mokha, we resolved to accept that letter of credit. When we afterwards presented it to the Dola, he sent us to receive the money from his Saraf, or banker, who paid us by instalments, but never without an air of dissatisfaction.

We could hardly think the Vizier serious in his offer, when he told us that the Imam would furnish us with beasts of burthen. We were even afraid that this might be an arrangement to delay our journey, and would rather have hired camels at our own expence. We thereupon came to an explanation with the secretary, whose answers led us to suspect an interested understanding between him, and the Arabian camel-hirer, or post-master.

We therefore ventured to address the Vizier again. He shewed surprise at our perplexity; because he had delivered to the secretary a written order, signed by the Imam’s own hand, in which he was directed to furnish us with camels

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and asses for our whole journey, and with a sheep for our provisions. The secretary, on account of our impatience to depart, had not had time to bargain for a share of the profits with the camel-drivers, and was obliged to deliver up the written order, with some pieces of stuff which the Imam had sent us for clothes to our servants. He gave us also notice, that some other presents were intended us, which could not be ready till after a certain number of hours. We set out without them, and the secretary probably kept them to himself.

The dress which I received from the Imam was exactly like that worn by the Arabs of distinction through Yemen. They wear the shirt over wide drawers of cotton-cloth. The Jambea, a sort of crooked cutlass, hangs by a broad girdle; and a vest with strait sleeves is covered by a flowing gown. The Arabs are strangers to the use of stockings. The only thing they wear on their feet is a sort of half boots, or slippers.

The Turks appear to abut the generous hospitality with which the Imam treats strangers travelling through his dominions. Poor pilgrims of that nation often come from Jidda, are entertained for months at Sana, and then ask money to defray the expences of their journey home. The Imam even orders a sum of money to be paid them in some of his sea-port towns,

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that they may return no more to be farther chargeable to so hospitable a people.

Within a short time after our arrival, a Turk, who had attended his master, an Egyptian nobleman, to Mecca, came by the way of Jidda and Hodeida to Sana, in hopes of obtaining instantly one of the first posts in the Imam’s army: for the Turks have so high an idea of their own military talents, that they suppose it would be too great a happiness to the Arabs to be able to engage a Turkish officer in their service. But the Imam, after entertaining this man some time at San; sent him to Hodeida, and ordered him a sum of money sufficient to carry him to Basra. On my return from India, I met with this same Turk, who had performed the voyage in a vessel belonging to Maskat, and had found it not more dangerous than the passage between Jidda and Hodeida.