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SECTION XV.

OUR RETURN FROM SANA TO MOKHA.

Chap. I.

Route from Sana to Beit el Fakih

On the 26th of July, the day of our departure from Sana, we made a short stage along a bad road among bare hills, with few villages interspersed over them. Next day, the road was still worse, lying over rocky mountains. This was the most rugged road I saw in all Yemen. The hills were bleak and wild, and the deep vallies among them contained only a few wretched hamlets.

On the 28th of July, we proceeded down steep declivities. But the hills began now to display a small share of verdure: And we here met with several camels, loaded with very bad wood, for Sana. The towns were poor and thinly scattered.

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In the evening, we were attacked by legions of locusts; but these were soon driven away by a violent storm of wind, accompanied by heavy rain.

We travelled, this day, onward to Moshak, a small town situate on the summit of a precipitous hill. The houses in which travellers lodge stand at the foot of the hill. We presented the Imam’s written order to the Dola of this city, who accordingly furnished us with camels, provender, a good meal for our servants, a sheep for our own supper, and even paid for our lodging. The revenue of Moshak, and the territory annexed to it, is enjoyed by one of the Imam’s sons.

Our next day’s journey was upon a still more disagreeable road. Nothing can be worse, indeed, than the roads between Moshak and Sehan. Upon the hill we found six large reservoirs, in which rain-water is collected. It becomes putrid, after standing for some time, and is then very disagreeable. In this country the Arabs believe they have most to fear from the worm in the nerves. If it be so, the cause must ly in their drinking that putrid water.

Leaving Sehan on the 30th of July, we continued our journey upon somewhat better roads which winded round the hills. Upon Harras, one of those hills, we came to a defile so narrow

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that a single camel could hardly pass. On either side are steep rocks; and rain, which had fallen on the preceding day, had broken a gap eight feet deep, precisely in the narrowest part of this road, and made it absolutely impassable. There was no other passage; and all our Arabs were of opinion that we should return straight to Sana, and take the road by Taœs: But we were unwilling to turn so far about, and therefore resolved to fill up the gap with stones. Our Arabs laughed to hear us propose an undertaking which they supposed would give us work for several days. But we began to gather stones; and by promises prevailed with them to assist us. Three hours of hard work completed our causeway, and we passed safe over. The Arabs maintained, that, in such a case, the first Dola of Yemen would rather have returned to Sana; than have undertaken what we had accomplished This gave no favourable impression of the spirit or industry of the nation.

On our way, we met with a wandering family, the first of this character that I saw in Yemen. They had no tents, but lived under trees with their asses, sheep, dogs, and fowls. I forgot to ask the name of this horde. But their mode of life is perfectly like that of our European gypsies. They are confined to no place, but go about the villages begging and stealing;

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and the poor peasants often give them something voluntarily, to remove them from their neighbourhood. A young girl of this company came to ask aims from us: Her face was uncovered. (FF)

At a small distance from the dangerous pass above mentioned, we saw the first plantation of coffee-trees. We had seen none of these since our excursions in the month of May; but this production does not appear to enrich those by whom it is here cultivated. The villages in the coffee-country are declining into a state of wretched poverty: The houses consist of dry walls, covered with reeds, and resemble those of the hills about Beit el Fakih and Dsobla. The river Sehan was so swoln that we had difficulty in passing it with our asses.

We spent the night at Samsur, a poor village where I lost my compass. In the morning, we found ourselves obliged to pass, more than a dozen of times in the space of a mile, over the river Sehan, which runs with a meandering course, among rocks, and with a very rapid current. This country being very poor, the roads are not exceedingly safe, and we were therefore obliged to travel slowly, without going before our baggage. We saw here many shrubs of the species which affords the balsam of Mecca; but

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the inhabitants of the country know not their value, and therefore neglect to cultivate them.

In the coffee-house of Til we met with several pilgrims returning from Mecca; among others an Arab from Doan, a city five-and-twenty days journey east from Sana, and twelve days journey from Kerchin; consequently, in a country entirely unknown to Europeans: I was vexed at the short time of our interview; and the great difference between the dialect which he spoke, and that of Tehama, which disqualified me from obtaining from him more particular information concerning his country.

From this inn the country improves. It is covered with verdure. In the valley are a number of rivulets which discharge themselves into the river Sehan; and a great many villages are scattered over the hills.

We saw a rivulet which loses itself under ground, and appears again at a considerable distance. After leaving the hills, it disappears entirely, and its waters are dispersed over the plains of the Tehama. The arable grounds among these hills are sown only with durra, a sort of coarse millet, of which the poorer people make their bread. The peasants cut out seats in the trees, and sit in these to watch their fields.

The rocks on the confines of the Tehama are basaltic, like those of the coffee-country near

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Beit el Fakih. We came yet to another rivulet which loses itself in the sands of the Tehama. At last we reached the plain, and arrived at Beit el Fakih in the evening of the 1st of August.

Chap. II.

Route from Beit el Fakih to Mokha.

The greater part of this city having been burnt down in the month of April last, we had expected to find it desolate. We were, therefor, greatly surprised to see all the houses, or rather huts, rebuilt. Several edifices of stone, fitter to resist the force of fire, had likewise been raised.

We sent notice to the Dola of our arrival, and desired him to have camels in readiness, on which we might continue our journey. Our Arabian servants would have demanded provisions from him, that they might make merry, and shew the people in what an honourable manner they were received.

I shall now only mention some changes produced by the rains upon this part of the country. Indeed, as we had already seen the face of the country, we preferred travelling by night at this time, to avoid suffering from the torrid heats of the day.

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Having set out from Beit el Fakih on the evening of the 2d of August, we met with two men, on our way to Zebid, who were leading asses loaded chiefly with silver, which had been received by the merchants from Egypt, for coffee, and which they were sending to Mokha, to purchase India goods. This mode of carrying money about, was a proof to us, that in this province there were no fears from robbers.

On the 3d of August, the Dola of Zebid was obliged to furnish us with provisions and camels. We had expected to find the river Zebid considerably swoln; but, near the city, its channel was entirely dry; the waters having been turned off, to overflow a great extent of the adjacent fields which, were surrounded by dykes. It should seem that the waters are not suffered to run in the channel of the river, till after they have been plentifully distributed over the country. The peasants construct their dykes in a very simple manner. After plowing up a field, they yoke a plank of wood to two oxen, lead these over the field, till the plank is loaded with earth, empty it upon the line where the dyke is to be drawn, and repeat this till it is formed. We stopped to rest for a few hours at Mauschid, and on the morning of the 5th of August arrived at Mokha.

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We had been extremely earnest to return to this city, lest the English ship in which we intended to sail for India, might be gone before our arrival. But, several circumstances happened to detain that vessel some time longer at Mokha: And we soon felt that we had travelled too hastily in that sultry climate. I fell ill on the 8th of August: Mr Baurenfeind was confined to his bed, within a few days after: and in a short time, Mr Cramer likewise, and all our European servants. We fortunately found our friend Mr Scott still here, who kindly supplied us with European refreshments, which did us more service than we could have received from the use of the best medicines. But all his friendly cares could not remove the lurking distemper which soon afterwards broke out with renewed violence, and deprived me of all my remaining fellow-travellers; as I shall relate in the proper place.

Chap. III.

Of the city of Mokha.

This city stands in a very dry and barren situation. Its fortifications are the walls which surround it, some towers on the way to Musa

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which are dignified with the name of castles, and two other castles of the same sort, upon the two arms of the harbour. The greatest of these two castles is called Kalla Tejar, and the smallest, Kalla Abdurrab, from the names of two saints, buried in these two places. They are provided with some few pecies of cannon.

The houses in the city are built of stone; and some are handsome, in the style of those of the suburb of Sana. However, there are others, both within and without the walls, no better than the huts common through all the Tehama. In the environs of this city are abundance of date-trees and many agreeable gardens.

Mokha is not an ancient city. It was built about four centuries since. It, like many other cities in the Tehama, owes its origin to a saint, the celebrated Schech Schœdeli. This Schech acquired at that period so great a reputation, that persons eagerly resorted from the most distant countries to receive his instructions. Some of his devout disciples built huts round his hermitage, which stood on the sea-side. A small village arose on this spot, and was by degrees enlarged into a city. Hitherto its history resembles that of the other cities in the Tehama. But, the rise of Mokha was attended with many peculiar circumstances, which deserve to be mentioned, as they are related by the Arabs;

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whose accounts seems to be founded in truth although dashed with a little of the marvellous, in the usual taste of the Arabian nation.

A ship bound from India to Jidda, cast anchor, one day, about four hundred years since, in these latitudes. The crew observing a hut in the desert, had the curiosity to go and see it. The Schech gave those strangers a kind reception, and regaled them with coffee, of which he was very fond himself, and to which he ascribed great virtues. The Indians who were unacquainted with the use of coffee, thought that this hot liquid, might cure the master of their ship, who was ill. Schædeli assured them, that, not only should he be cured by the efficacy of his prayers, and of the coffee, but that if they would land their cargo there, they might dispose of it to considerable advantage. Assuming at the same time the air and tone of a prophet, he told them that a city should one day, be built upon that spot, which was to become an eminent mart of the Indian trade.

The merchant to whom the vessel belonged, being struck with this singular language, went on shore, to see and converse with this extraordinary man. He drank the coffee prescribed by the prophet, and found himself better. On the same day a great number of Arabs came to hear the preacher in his hermitage. Among them

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were several merchants, who purchased the whole cargo. The Indian returned home well pleased, and spread the fame of the holy Schaedeli, so that the place was soon frequented by many of his countrymen.

An elegant mosque was raised upon the tomb of Schech Schædeli, which stands without the walls of the present city. The well from which the common people draw water for drinking, and one of the city gates, bear his name. His descendents are held in honour, and enjoy the title of Schech. The people swear by him. The name of Shædeli will be remembered as long as Mokha stands.

Besides, Schædeli is not only the patron of Mokha; but all the Musulmans who drink coffee mention him every morning in their Pratha, or prayer, and esteem him also as their patron. They invoke him not, but thank God for having taught mankind the use of coffee, through the mediation of Schædeli, and implore the favour of heaven on the Schechs, his descendents A merchant of Mecca made an observation upon those saints, which I was surprised to hear from a Mahometan. The vulgar, said he, must always have a visible object to fear and honour, Thus, at Mecca, oaths, instead of being addressed to God, are pronounced in the name of Mahomet. At Mokha, I would not trust a man

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who should take God to witness the truth of any thing he happened to assert: but I might much more safely depend upon him who should swear by Schech Schaedeli, whose mosque and tomb are before their eyes.

Mokha was the last city in Yemen of which the Turks retained possession. It is said that the Arabs did not conquer, but buy it. Since the Turks were dispossessed, it has never had another master than the Imam.

A Dola having enriched himself in his government, had fortified the city, and drawn a trench round it, which is now filled up. He was suspected of an intention to make himself independent; but his views were frustrated, and himself cast into prison. From that time, a Dola has never been continued above three years in this lucrative government. After the monsoon season, the Dola of Mokha is every year obliged to give an account of his administration, and is then either confirmed in his employment, or instantly recalled to Sana.

I know not whether the Christians of the East have ever settled at Mokha. A good many Jews live here, in a separate village, as in the other cities of Yemen. Here are nearly seven hundred Banians, Rajaputs, and other Indians, some of whom are merchants, and others earn their livelihood by exercising different mechanic arts.

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When they have made a small fortune, they commonly return home to India: And on this account are always looked upon as strangers.

Chap. IV.

Bombardment of Mokha by the French.

I could learn nothing of the history of this city, except one event, which happened five and twenty years since. I relate the circumstances of this transaction, as they were recounted to me by the Arabs; for they will serve to give an idea of the power and policy of the Imam.

The Dola of Mokha often purchases out of the ships from India, goods, of which the value amounts to more than the sum due for custom-house duties and other taxes. He takes those goods upon the Imam’s account, and always promises to deduct the debt out of the duties which may become due next year. But he continues, year after year, to take new goods to account, and the debt is thus increased, and still remains unpaid. By dealing for some time in this manner, the French East India Company at length found the Imam 82,000 crowns in their debt.

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now lost patience, and obliged the governor to take measures to satisfy his creditors. A treaty was accordingly concluded; and the French landed their goods, and continued their trade as before. Of all their crew, they lost only one man, who had happened to fall asleep before the door of his lodging in the town. An Arabian soldier stabbed him in revenge for the death of a relation of his, who had been killed by a bomb-shot.

The Dola was unable to make farther refinance; and had undoubtedly done all that was in his power to serve his master. The Imam was, however, dissatisfied, recalled him, and confiscated his palace at Sana. A merchant of Mokha, who had advanced a large sum to satisfy the demands of the French, had not received payment, even at the time when we were there.

Several of the Arabs still recollect this little affair with pleasure, and remember, with a degree of gaiety, those pots of fire, as they called them to me, which pursued their Dola backwards and forwards, wherever he went. Since that time the Arabs have entertained a high opinion of the military talents of the Europeans. In any Turkish city, no Christians, of whatever nation, could have been safe from the fury of the populace during such hostilities. But, at

Mokha, the English and Dutch remained in perfect security during this war with the French (GG)

Chap. V.

Of the Trade of Mokha.

Several nations formerly traded to this port, which now frequent it no more. The Portuguese, who were, two centuries ago, very powerful on the Arabic Gulph, have long since ceased to send ships hither. The Dutch rarely appear here; and the French never in time of war, although they still continue to rent warehouses here. The English at present engross, almost exclusively, the trade of this place. Their East India Company, indeed, send only one vessel hither in two years, to take in a cargo of coffee. But the trade is so much the more advantageous to private merchants settled in India. In this year there had come five English ships from different ports in India, not to mention three others which proceeded straight to Jidda. Since the time when an English merchant resident at Mokha, was maltreated by the populace in the absence of the ships, the English have always returned with their vessels to India, and

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left the management of their affairs, during their absence, to a Banian.

Since the trade of Mokha is so considerable, the customs cannot but afford a large revenue to the Imam. The Turks, Arabs, and Indians are obliged to carry their goods straight to the custom-house, to be there inspected, and to pay eight or ten per cent. upon their value, at the arbitrary estimation of the custom-house officers. All Europeans enjoy the privilege of having their goods inspected in their own warehouses, and of paying only three per cent. upon their value. Since the English have become so powerful in Bengal, and have imported those goods which were formerly furnished by the Indians, they have been required to pay only three per cent. But the government continue to observe their treaties, and yet to maintain their ancient rights, by making the merchants in Mokha pay likewise five per cent. on all Indian goods which they purchase.

Beside the duties payable at the customhouse, ships pay another duty under the name of anchorage, which amounts to some hundreds of crowns, and is regulated, not by the tonnage of the vessel, but by the number of its masts. On the other hand, a merchant, who lades a large European ship with coffee in this port, receives

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from the Dola a premium of four hundred crowns.

According to the observation of the Arabians, the monsoons are regular in these latitudes. The north wind blows for six months, and the south wind for other six months. It is not to be supposed, however, that these are the only winds known here. During the month of August, especially, the wind blows from all the points in the horizon. An English ship bound for Jidda was obliged to return to Mokha, and to wait there some months for a favourable wind.

The Arabs have scarcely any article for exportation, except coffee, of which the Indians are not very fond. The English ships must return empty to India, if they did not gain considerably by carrying money, with which the Arabian merchants entrust them. These merchants had freighted one English vessel from Jidda, with a million of crowns; and that on board which we sailed, had 250,000 crowns of theirs in specie.

These sums are almost always in European coins, Venetian ducats, or German coins. It may be supposed that other English and Indian vessels carry also considerable sums from Jidda and Mukha. The ships which sail from Basra to India, are in the same manner freighted with

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money which has passed from Europe through Turkey. When to this we add the quantity of specie carried directly to India and China by the nations of Europe, it appears that Europe must have been long since exhausted of gold and silver, were it not for the treasures imported from America.

When a foreign vessel arrives in the road of Mokha, it must not salute with guns, but only hoist a flag. The Dola then sends out a boat to examine it, and learn the purpose of its approach. If any difficulties are raised, the captain needs only say, that he will proceed to Hodeida or Loheya. The Dola, unwilling to lose the presents which he receives from every ship, is soon brought by this means to hear reason.

It would not be difficult for any other nation to obtain the same privileges which the English presently enjoy at Mokha. But the trade on the coasts of the Red Sea can be advantageous to no nation who have not settlements in India. The Arabians make no use of the productions of Europe. It would be necessary, therefore, to supply them with India goods, and to take coffee in return, which can be bought cheaper from ships which take it in merely to avoid returning empty. There is, indeed, a great quantity of iron sold in Arabia, which the English purchase chiefly from the Danes. It is, therefore,

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probable, that the latter nation might find their interest in a direct trade with the goods of Denmark, and our colonies between Tranquebar and Mokha.

It will not be amiss to add one slight observation concerning the brokers of different nations. A stranger cannot be too much on his guard against Mahometan brokers. He will find his account in addressing himself rather to the Banians, among whom are many considerable merchants, very honest men. Through all the countries in the East, Mahometan merchants have the knavery to seek to irritate the Christians, when, after having duped them, they fear their resentment. And then, when any term of reproach is uttered by the strangers in the heat of passion, the rascally Mussulmans make a great noise, under pretence that their religion is abused, and threaten to complain to the magistrates. Several Europeans have been obliged to pay considerable sums by these arts of knaves who had previously cheated them. (HH)