SECTION XX.

Of the General Character, and of the Commerce of this Province.

Hadramaut is bounded, on the west by Yemen, on the south-east by the ocean, on the north-east by Oman, and on the north by a great desart. It comprehends a wide extent of country, especially if, with the Arabians, we include in it the district of Mahhra. Mahhra seems to be like Tehama, a sandy plain, extending in breadth, from the shores of the ocean backward to where the hill country commences.

105

These plains have probably been once covered by the sea.

Such being the state of the coast, and of the Highlands, Hadramaut, like Yemen, exhibits great diversities of soil and surface. Some parts of it are dry and desart; but the hills are extremely fertile, and are intersected by well-watered vales.

The inhabitants of this province, too, are divided, like those of Yemen, into Arabs settled in towns, wandering Bedouins, and Kobails or Highlanders. A native of Hadramaut, with whom I had opportunities of conversing, described his country as the seat of science and religion. The other Arabs are less favourable in their accounts, and not without reason, if one may judge from the coarseness of the dialect spoken in this province. It differs so considerably from that of Yemen, that I needed an interpreter to assist me in conversing with the person who entertained me with the above pompous elogium of his country. The religion of his countrymen must be a tissue of fantastic pieces of superstition; for the Sunnites are the prevalent sect among them.

Arabia the Happy, comprehending, as I have above remarked, the two provinces of Yemen and Hadramaut, enjoyed, in the remotest times, a very extensive commerce. Its exports consisted

106

not only in its own productions, but in those of India likewise, which were brought into its harbours, upon the shores of the ocean, by vessels from India. As the navigation of the Arabic Gulph was always reckoned dangerous, those articles of merchandise were conveyed by land into Egypt and Syria. The caravans were a source of wealth to the whole nation; the inhabitants of the towns gained by purchases and sales, and the Bedouins by hiring out their camels. There is, therefore, the greatest truth in the accounts of the ancients, which describe so pompously the opulence of the Happy Arabia, although its present state be far from flourishing.

Since the Europeans have discovered a different rout to India, the trade of South Arabia has necessarily declined. To Yemen the loss is made up by the exportation of such immense quantities of coffee; a traffic begun two centuries ago, and still encreasing: But Hadramaut, producing little coffee, has no such resource, and is therefore not likely to recover suddenly from the disadvantages which it has suffered by the loss of its Indian trade.

Yet this province still carries on some trade in its native productions; for these, ships from Maskat visit its harbours upon the ocean. The little coffee which it affords, incense, gum Arabic,

Of the Principal Towns in Hadramaut.

There are in Hadramaut a good many considerable towns, which were known to the ancients, perhaps better than they are at present. Notwithstanding the pains which I took, I could learn the names only of a few of those places. What I know of the rest, I had from some persons not very well acquainted with the present state of Hadramaut. I shall repeat what was told me concerning some of those cities.

108

Schibam, a large city, and the seat of a powerful prince, is eight days journey distant from Sana, and ten from Mareb. An Arabian from Mareb informed me, that he had not found a single village in Dsjof, on his way from his native city; but that, as he travelled through Hadramaut, he had been in several considerable towns. Schibam seems to be the Saba of the ancients, from which the Sabeans were denominated. This people occupied the southern parts of Arabia, before Mareb became the capital of their empire.

Doan, in which a Schiech resides, is five and twenty days journey eastward from Sana, and eleven from Keschim. An inhabitant of Doan, whom I met with in Yemen, told me, that it was a larger and more elegant city than Sana.

Dafar is a well known sea-port town, from which incense, called in Arabia Oliban or Liban, is exported. This incense is not nearly so good as that of India. The Arabians are blamed for selling both their incense and their gum without purifying them. This neglect occasions a deterioration in the quality, and a reduction in the price. A Schiech likewise resides in Dafar.

Keschim is a sea-port town, and the seat of a sovereign prince. Its inhabitants are said to be highly civilized, and to receive all strangers hospitably.

109

The English sometimes visit this harbour.

Merbat and Hasek are two cities, known only for the traffic which their inhabitants carry on in incense produced in that neighbourhood. The quantity of this incense is not so considerable as that which comes from Dafar; but it is better in quality than that from Schæhhr. The great consumption of incense in the Indian temples, and even in private houses, through some countries in the East, is what chiefly occasions the demand for this article. It is not used in the mosques.

Ainad is a considerable town, thirteen days journey from Keschim, and seven from Schæhhr. An inhabitant of this town whom I saw in Maskat, told me, what divers other Arabians confirmed, that the tomb of the ancient prophet Kachtan or Jaktan, mentioned in the Koran, stands within a day’s journey of Ainad. Even before the days of Mahomet, pilgrims used to visit this tomb. The inhabltants of Hadramaut still assemble at a certain time to perform their devotions there. A famous fair is held at it. It is remarked, that all pilgrimages to one place, for so many centuries, owe their continued existence to commerce.

This same Arab from Ainad named to me more than a score of cities, in the interior parts

110

of the province, which he had visited. As I know nothing of them but their names, I shall not set down the bare list.

There are also several sea-ports, concerning which I could obtain no particular information. What was particularly striking in the lists of names mentioned to me, was the remarkable resemblance of the names of many of the present cities in Hadramaut, to those of the cities of Arabia spoken of by the most ancient historians. Many of these establishments, in this province, must have existed in the same state from the most remote antiquity.

These observations lead me to think, that a journey through this province might prove at least no less interesting than our journey through Yemen. The difficulties attending such an expedition, could not be greater than those which we had to struggle with. I was acquainted with a Turk, who related to me with what ease and safety he had visited the several sea-port towns in South Arabia. The inhabitants of that coast, remembering the wealth which strangers used to bring thither in former times, and long accustomed to receive them well, would undoubtedly give Europeans a favourable reception at present.

111

Of the Sovereign Princes in Hadramaut.

The Bedouins, and inhabitants of the hills, have here, as well as through the rest of Arabia, a number of independent Schiechs; but, not knowing particulars, I can say nothing of them.

The coasts, and the adjacent country, are shared among sovereigns of higher dignity, whom travellers have called Kings, although they take only the title of Schiech or Sultan. The Schiech of Schibam I have already mentioned as one of the most powerful.

Doan belongs to a Schiech, whom I believe to be a descendent of Mahomet, and of the family of the Imams; for he who reigned in 1763 was called Sejid Isa el Amudi. In a neighbouring city, are the tombs of all the princes of the illustrious house of Amudi.

The Schiech of Dafar is also a Sovereign Prince; but I know not either his name, or the extent of his power.

He of Keschim, called by some travellers, King of Fartak, is the most powerful. His dominions comprehend a considerable number of cities, among which is that of Fartak; and hence the

112

fancied kingdom of Fartak, represented in various maps. One of the Princes of Keschim may have, some time or other, resided in that city, and may thus have given rise to the idea of a Sovereign of Fartak. Beside his possessions on the continent, the Schiech of Keschim is likewise Lord of the island of Soccatra, or Soccatora, famous for its aloes. The presumptive heir to the reigning Schiech is always governor of this island, which seems to have belonged to these Arabian Princes from time immemorial. Arrian relates that, in the period concerning which he writes, it was subject to the Sovereigns of the incense country. The first Portuguese who visited Arabia found the Prince of Keschim stiIl in the undisturbed possession of this part of the ancient dominions of his family.

The principality of Ainad must be extensive, if the account may be credited, which I received from a native of the city of the some name. But I have reason to suspect, that the Sovereign of Ainad is one of those Sultans of Jafa who have conquered some territories in Hadramaut.

There are probably still other sovereign states in this widely extended province. But I had not opportunities of acquiring farther knowledge of a country, which, for many reasons, deserves to be better known.